Emmy Red Carpet: The Best, The Worst And A Mad Men Fashion Surprise

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Lillian Russell

Word is, Lena Dumham is writing an HBO series based on 82 year old Betty Halbreich, Bergdorf’s legendary personal shopper. Obviously, Halbreich did not select this Prada number for Dunham, easily the worst dressed woman at the Emmy’s–maybe ever.c8bb0502-c499-45f6-9221-763337865594_lenadunham Best dressed honors in the bombshell division go to Sofia Vergaraffd8216a-7e19-4c27-a794-6a9f3c2a26eb_sofiavergara in Vera Wang.  And the “Why Miss Jones You’re Beautiful” award goes to Elisabethe0fe5b6a-a6d1-4afe-9288-85796fbfb228_January-Jones 00d44cbd-11d8-430f-b14e-2b9356cf941b_JessicaPare 8e096810-87f4-4890-b76a-b4fa6e75a7ee_Elisabeth-Moss b8c973a6-10d4-4cd3-bc44-448bff1feef2_KiernanShipka Moss, who in one of the rare and inexplicable fashion mis-steps on Mad Men is usually dressed like Lady Bird Johnson, wowed last night with a new blonde do and attitude. Christina Hendricks in Cristian Sirano was a little too Lillian Russel 937f01bd-fb30-4ee7-aa9c-cdd8a420a789_ChristinaHendricks for modern life.

YSL’s Neo-Grunge: The Highest-Priced Hipster Shirt On Earth

Is it possible to be more ENC?  Emperor’s New Clothes, that is. Presenting the $2,990 plaid ba3fe096bcb81a90006f5a2bc1268520flannel shirt from Yves Saint Laurent.
Bergdorf’s bills it as Punk-Grunge. I’m still in shock and in awe
of the hubris it takes to charge nearly $3,000 for this shapeless bit of non-design meant to be worn over a little, black, equally over-priced dress ($2,990).

BGB29N6_mxDefinitely for the “I only donate, but never shop at the thrift shop”  crowd. Everyone else can duplicate the look for under $50 at their local Goodwill.

Onesies For The 1%: The Return Of The Jumpsuit

There’s BG-45R6_mxnot a hint of  Vegas Elvis flash or much Cat Woman sexiness about these 21st Century jumpsuits. They’re more like dresses with a crotch, all very easy (and expensive)  one-step dressing. These, from Bergdorf’s. BG-42FP_mx BGB21NH_mx BGB28KS_mx

Shoe Biz: 50 Shades Of Manolo And Bondage With A Bow From Louboutin

birdwithbluefeetYup, it’s one shoe with  50 3e8c7f780524c87949374796c4859566 2b22fffbced07b875f9c9f333dde713965840eb3db681b3f98b501856e2d4903 different ways to wear it. Manolo Blahnik is at Bergdorf Goodman today shilling for his “B.B” collection of classic, single-soled, pointy toe pumps which, when  all is said and done, is the most flattering femme shoe ever. I don’t  know what “B.B” stands for,  but the shoe’s iconic status makes me think “Blahnik Basic” though  MB and his marketing people likely  had something more poetic and elegant in mind. At about $625 a pair, owning “B.B’s” in all fifty variations and the bragging rights that come with it, will set you about back about $31,250 plus tax.

Calling Bettie Page…Christian Louboutin does the good girl pin-up shoe with a hint

Dos Noeud Back-Bow d'Orsay Red Sole Pump, Black

Dos Noeud Back-Bow d’Orsay Red Sole Pump, Black

of bondage chic (ankle strap, 4 3/4 ” heels) and a flirty, lady bow. The message here is naughty and nice at $1.045. Also at Bergdorf Goodman.

Details

The Rich Nerd Shirts of Saint-Paul Designer Jungho Geortay

There is something low-key11113904035-12MC-saintpaul-chemise-01-0575-0465 11113904035-12MC-saintpaul-chemiserhapsody-04-0575-0465 11113904036-12MC-saintpaul-chemise-01-0575-0465 11113904036-12MC-saintpaul-chemisecanageblue-04-0575-0465 but special about this new luxury men’s shirt brand. Saint-Paul Designer Jungho Geortay: draws all the prints by hard and they have  a rich-nerdy  edge that 11413904037-08GR-saintpaul-veste-01-0575-0465 11413904037-08GR-saintpaul-vestedhiver-04-0575-0465feels very “Guys the  HBO GIrls would date who work at Goggle” . The Saint-Paul guy doesn’t shop the slick Brit shirts at Pink even for a wedding. Geortay did gigs at  Lanvin, Enzo, Galutier before starting his own firm four years ago. Find St.Paul at the Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store. Shirts are about $100.

From the Saint-Paul website of Jungho Geortay:

“Each piece of this line has its own identity, prints are exclusive and share in common poetry, humor and fantasy.11113904034-12MC-saintpaul-chemise-01-0575-0465 11113904034-12MC-saintpaul-chemiseoestcharlie-04-0575-0465 11413904038-06NY-saintpaul-veste-01-0575-0465 12013904041-01BC-saintpaul-tshirt-01-0575-0465 12013904040-01BC-saintpaul-tshirt-01-0575-0465Tthe shirts are cut and handmade in our Morrocan workshops. T-shirts prints are hand painted and hand drawn, which makes each piece unique.

Jackets are made in association with Mister Smith: we created the Winter Jacket, with thermally moulded pockets, combined with traditional tailoring techniques. They are lined with wool and cashmere and are tailored in a Sicilian workshop,

His “Highness” And The Sedan Chair: Christian Louboutin’s New 6 1/2 Inch Heels

dd03b24a7f1034352df7aead393ccac1 649f12a689a1a39183c123e2b04e42ec 0ffd5844ed6861a62a7cf7d8860fbdf8I  suspect there is a certain class of 21st Century show-off who would love being transported around NYC in a sedan chair.

The idea is not as nuts as it sounds now that Christian Louboutin is doing his red-soled 5247aedb9679e81f7874fefa01f51ad25eef1c7ae344a564d62ef9ab6c2d438d04224009b017423a78b76d762f998ddee5c1e5a7ecefd1d2edfd6592efd9837aplatforms  with six  1/2″ heels.

Shoes this high are a low point for women, rendering us as immobile and slavishly devoted to ridiculous ostentation as the Marie Antoinette crowd. There is more than a hint of a bondage/fetish vibe about this silly and potentially dangerous new spring look.

Louboutin’s ” Highness” Shoes retail from $1,000-$2,000.

Bergdorf’s copy admits:

“Not for beginners: A must-have for the veteran Louboutin lover, this Christian Louboutin pump makes you over half a foot taller. A concealed statement platform enhances the appeal of the crimson-flashed sole.

  • Sleek patent calfskin forms classic pump silhouette.
  • Snipped peep toe.
  • 6″ covered heel displays signature red sole; 2 1/4″ concealed platform lowers equiv. to approx. 4″.
  • “Highness” is made in Italy.”

From Jane Austen’s World:  …”The Sedan Chair was invented in France and later introduced to Britain. It consisted of a covered box carried on two polessedan-chair-bath, and proved invaluable to rich people traveling to social gatherings in their finery, in the days when there was no pavement and  streets would become very muddy. Below is an etching of a Georgian street scene of a Sedan Chair being used near the Pump Room in Bath. The entrances to the grand Georgian houses were

Sedan Chair Made For The Countess Of Sprencer At Althorpe, 1760

Sedan Chair Made For The Countess Of Spencer At Althorpe, 1760

large enough to enable chairs to be carried right up to the door so the occupant would not get wet!

As previously stated, Sedan chairs for hire were common in London. Chairmen wore a uniform, were licensed to carry passengers, and had to display a number, like today’s taxi drivers. Three hundred chair permits were issued in London and Westminster in the early 1700′s. A similar system was later used in Scotland, where a fare system was established in 1738. A trip within a city cost six pence and a day’s rental was four shillings. It cost £1 1 shilling to hire a sedan chair for a week. The chairs were available around the clock, but after midnight the chairmen would be paid double the fare.

Because these portable chairs could be carried inside buildings, people could be transported around the city without being identified. This made it easier for people who were evading the law to go about their business, or for public personages to carry on trysts. Links-boys would light the road at night, and they waited until they were needed again to light the way back. As the painting below shows, accidents did happen!

Rowlandson, Sedan chair breaking down Chairmen  were notoriously rude and unscrupulous often locking their passengers in the chair until they had paid the exorbitant fare.  Beau Nash licensed them and set reasonable fares. Their demise came when a local man invented the “Bath chair,” a 3 wheeled vehicle.” –Jane Austen’s World

 

The Expensive Secret of Jackie Kennedy’s Camelot Chic: A French Givenchy Inaugural Gown With An American Label

Mamie Eisenhower, 1953 by Nettie Rosenstein

Mamie Eisenhower, 1953 by Nettie Rosenstein

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Mrs. Benjamin Harrison's  1889 Inaugural Gown Was The First One Made In The U.S.

Mrs. Benjamin Harrison’s 1889 Inaugural Gown Was The First One Made In The U.S.

No surprise here--it's Martha Washinton's, Our First First Lady's Inaugural Gown

No surprise here–it’s Martha Washinton’s, Our First First Lady’s Inaugural Gown

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That bombshell, so very Fifties pink number with a splash of 2,000 rhinestones  was by Nettie Rosenstein for Mamie Eisenhower, 1953. Yes, it was the postwar New Look but the small waisted, poufy dance skirt silhouette that required corsets and petticoats could have been worn in 1889 if Mrs. Benjamin Harrison had been a hotter babe.

A more moderh Camelot Chic arrived with Jackie Kennedy. Rumored to have a $100,000 clothing allowance, the First Lady loved French couture and used the atelier of Bergdorf Goodman to make her clothes. Though Oleg Cassini took credit for her “American” wardrobe, her most iconic pieces (like her 1961 Inaugural Costume) was actually designed by Hubert Givenchy, Audrey Hepburn’s fave, who was French.

Helen Taft Inaugural Gown

Helen Taft Inaugural Gown, 1909